Fertilizer FAQs

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Does fertilizer go bad?

In my experience, fertilizer itself doesn’t really go “bad” like a carton of milk. I had that old bag of miracle-gro in the shed for years, and the little pellets looked just like the day I bought it. The problem is, it seems to lose its punch over time. You remember that time I used that leftover stuff on my tomato plants? They were a bit lackluster compared to the ones I fertilized regularly with the fresh bag. So, while it might not go bad in the traditional sense, I wouldn’t trust year-old fertilizer to give my plants the boost they need. I guess it’s like that jar of coffee in the back of the cupboard – technically drinkable, but definitely not the best experience.

Where to buy bulk fertilizer near me?

Here are the best places to find bulk fertilizer near you:

  • Local Farm Supply Stores: These stores cater to farmers and often have a wide selection of fertilizers available in bulk quantities. They might even offer custom blending services and advice on the best fertilizer for your needs.
  • Agricultural Cooperatives: If you’re a member of a co-op, they usually offer bulk fertilizer at competitive prices. Co-ops often have access to resources and experts to help with all your fertilizing questions.
  • Online Retailers: Many online retailers specialize in fertilizers and offer bulk options.
  • Bulk Fertilizer Suppliers: Search online for “bulk fertilizer suppliers near me.” These companies often specialize in large-scale fertilizer sales for farms and landscaping businesses, but some may cater to homeowners as well.
Fertilizer | Monsteraholic

How does the use of fertilizer affect the nitrogen cycle?

I always considered using fertilizer like giving my plants a quick energy boost. It provides them with all the extra nutrients they need, especially during those demanding growing periods. But using it too often definitely isn’t a good thing. It throws the whole natural nitrogen cycle out of whack. Plants start to get ‘lazy’, depending on me for that nitrogen fix instead of all the amazing bacteria in the soil. Plus, when there’s too much nitrogen, the runoff becomes a big problem. It gets into our waterways and throws entire ecosystems out of balance. I like to think of fertilizer as a helpful tool, but only when used in moderation and alongside good soil practices.

What fertilizer to use in spring?

For me, giving the lawn a good shot of nitrogen in the springtime is like waking it up after a long winter. I look for fertilizers with a high first number on the N-P-K ratio, as that’s our nitrogen value. A slow-release formula is always a good bet too – it keeps feeding the grass over time instead of that one big surge that can fade quickly. Of course, I always take a peek at my soil test results from the previous year. Those are the best way to really see what my lawn needs beyond just the basics. If the soil’s looking low on nutrients other than nitrogen, I’ll adjust my fertilizer pick accordingly. Sometimes, the soil is already pretty balanced and the grass just needs that little nitrogen boost to get it green and lush.

What is fertilizer made of?

Honestly, the first time I learned what goes into fertilizer, it was a little surprising. Things like nitrogen from the air, rock dust, and even animal byproducts – yeah, definitely not something I thought about before! The whole process is fascinating, though. I mean, they take nitrogen from the air, mix it with natural gas, and somehow turn it into these little pellets in a bag! Plus, there are different kinds of fertilizers for different needs, depending on if you’re growing flowers, vegetables, or grass. It makes me appreciate all the work that goes into making the right mixture to help our plants thrive.

Is fertilizer bad for dogs?

Fertilizer can definitely be bad news for dogs. You know my lab, Buddy? Always got his nose into everything in the yard! One time he decided to “sample” that bag of fertilizer I left open in the garage. Thankfully he only got a few licks in before I realized, but let’s just say his stomach was not happy with him for a couple of days. Some fertilizers are worse than others, especially ones with extra ingredients like insecticides or weed killers. I’ve even heard about fertilizers causing burns on paws. These days, I try to use pet-friendly options whenever possible and keep Buddy supervised in the yard until any fertilizer I’ve used has time to soak in.

Is rabbit poop good fertilizer?

You wouldn’t believe the difference rabbit poop made to my garden last year! A friend has a couple of pet bunnies, and she offered me a whole bucket of the stuff. At first, I was a bit hesitant, but let me tell you, those plants absolutely loved it. Unlike some animal manures, you can use rabbit poop fresh without risking burning your plants. It’s packed with nitrogen, and that extra boost made my tomatoes huge and my flowers bloom like crazy. Honestly, now I’m always asking my friend for more of that “bunny gold”!

What do fertilizer numbers mean?

The first time I saw those numbers on a bag of fertilizer, I was totally confused. Who knew gardening required a quick math lesson? But then someone explained it to me, and it all made sense. That three-number code, the N-P-K, tells you what percentage of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium is in the bag. It’s like the nutrition label on food! If my veggie garden needs that extra boost for flowering and fruiting, I’ll look for a fertilizer with a higher middle number, because that’s the phosphorus. It’s a handy system once you understand it, and makes deciding on the right fertilizer way less of a mystery.

Is cat poop good fertilizer?

Unfortunately, while scooping that litter box might seem like potential garden gold, cat poop is not a good choice for fertilizer. The main concern comes from parasites. Cats can be carriers of things like toxoplasmosis, which can be harmful to people, especially if you’re growing vegetables. Also, cat poop has a lot of nitrogen, and too much can actually damage your plants. It’s one of those cases where our feline friends’ waste is best left in the litter box. I stick to proper compost piles for my fertilizing needs, it’s definitely the safer bet for both me and my plants.

Is plant food the same as fertilizer?

I used to get confused about this all the time! You hear the terms “plant food” and “fertilizer” thrown around, and it’s easy to assume they’re the same thing. The thing is, while they both help our plants out, “plant food” is more about the process of photosynthesis – you know, how plants make their own food with sunlight, water, and air. Fertilizer, on the other hand, is like a vitamin supplement. It gives them the extra nutrients they need, especially the big three: nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Now, you might see products labeled “plant food” in the garden store, but that’s usually just another way of saying fertilizer.

What is 10 10 10 fertilizer good for?

10-10-10 fertilizer is a jack-of-all-trades! I always have a bag around because it’s so versatile. Those three equal numbers mean it has a balanced amount of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium – the essential elements for plant growth. This makes it great for giving a general boost to all kinds of plants, from my vegetables in the garden to my flowering shrubs and even the lawn. Of course, I like to double-check if there’s a specific plant that might need something a little different, but 10-10-10 is my go-to for most of my fertilizing needs.

What is the best fertilizer for hydrangeas?

Getting my hydrangeas to bloom with those big, vibrant flowers is always a treat. Turns out, the best fertilizer for them depends on whether you want those blue, pink, or even purple blooms. For the classic blue hydrangeas, I go for a fertilizer with aluminum sulfate or a formula specifically for acid-loving plants. If I’m after dazzling pinks, a fertilizer with a higher phosphorus content (that middle number in the N-P-K ratio) does the trick. Of course, I like to keep my soil pH in mind too. But generally, a rose-tone fertilizer works wonders for giving my hydrangeas that extra boost and encouraging those stunning blooms!

Can you apply lime and fertilizer at the same time?

While you technically can mix and apply lime and fertilizer together, it’s usually not the best idea. The reason? Soil chemistry! Lime is all about adjusting your soil’s pH. It does its job slowly over time and too much at once can mess things up. Fertilizer, on the other hand, is meant to release nutrients quickly for your plants. Mixing them can sometimes make certain fertilizer components less available for the plants to use. To make sure my plants get the most out of both, I usually handle them separately. If my soil test says I need lime, I spread that out first and let it do its thing for a while before I put down any fertilizer.

What does fertilizer do for grass?

Think of fertilizer as a powerful energy drink for your grass! It gives it all those extra nutrients to grow thick, green, and healthy, especially during demanding times like scorching summer days or when it’s recovering from lots of foot traffic. A good nitrogen-rich fertilizer helps keep the color vibrant, kind of like how a green smoothie makes me feel refreshed! Regular fertilizing also helps your lawn get that nice, lush carpet feel. The grass gets stronger and the roots grow deeper, which means it can handle some stress without turning patchy and brown.

What is urea fertilizer?

Urea fertilizer is all about nitrogen! It’s that super concentrated source of nitrogen plants crave for healthy growth. I like to think of it as a super-strong shot of espresso for my garden. It’s made by taking nitrogen from the air and turning it into these small, white pellets. Because it’s so packed with nitrogen, a little goes a long way, which is why it’s so popular. But you have to be careful with it, as using too much can actually harm your plants, and it can run off into waterways easily when it rains.

Does fertilizer kill weeds?

No, regular fertilizer itself won’t kill weeds. It’s designed to give your grass a nutrient boost, not target unwanted visitors. There are however a couple of ways fertilizer can indirectly affect weeds:

  1. Happy Grass, Choked Out Weeds: A healthy, thick lawn thanks to fertilizing can make it harder for weeds to germinate and compete for space and resources. Strong grass basically shades out the weed seedlings, making it difficult for them to establish themselves.
  2. Weed and Feed Products: These are combination products containing both fertilizer and herbicide. They’ll feed your lawn while targeting weeds at the same time. It can be a convenient option, but be mindful of potential drawbacks like harming desirable plants through accidental application or using too much fertilizer for your lawn’s needs.

For persistent weed problems, it’s usually best to tackle them directly with a dedicated herbicide rather than relying solely on fertilizer.

Is 10 10 10 fertilizer good for lawns?

Absolutely! 10-10-10 fertilizer is a good choice for lawns because of its balanced mix of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Here’s why it works:

  • Green and Lush: Nitrogen is like the leafy-green power booster! It helps your grass blades grow strong and green, giving your lawn that vibrant color.
  • Strong Roots: Phosphorus is all about root strength, helping your lawn establish a deep and healthy foundation. This means better drought resilience and fewer patchy spots.
  • Overall Health: Potassium offers all-around support, helping your grass fight off stress, like scorching heat or heavy foot traffic.

However, 10-10-10 is best as a general booster. Before you grab the bag, consider these:

  • Soil Test: A soil test is the best way to know your lawn’s specific needs. Maybe you already have enough phosphorus, and a fertilizer a little higher in nitrogen would be better.
  • Lawn Type: Some grasses might have distinct preferences, so if you know what type of grass you have, double-check recommendations for that variety.

Overall, 10-10-10 can be a great lawn fertilizer, just make sure it aligns with what your grass actually needs!

Is goat poop good fertilizer?

Absolutely! Goat poop is a fantastic fertilizer. I’ve seen the difference it makes for my plants firsthand. Here’s why it’s so good:

  • Nutrient Powerhouse: Goat poop has a good amount of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, the essential nutrients for healthy plant growth. Plus, the pelleted form makes it super easy to spread around.
  • Less Burning Risk: Unlike some manures, like from cows or chickens, goat poop is less likely to burn your plants due to its lower nitrogen concentration. This means you can often use it even while plants are actively growing.
  • Soil Booster: It does wonders for soil texture, loosening up heavy soils and improving drainage.
  • Gentle and Odorless: It’s pretty much odor-free compared to other manures, making it pleasant to work with.

While you can use fresh goat manure, composting it beforehand is even better! This helps to further break it down and kill any potential pathogens for maximum benefit and safety.

When to use 28-0-3 fertilizer?

A 28-0-3 fertilizer is ideal for times when you want to give your plants a big dose of nitrogen without any extra phosphorus or potassium. Here’s when I find it most useful:

  • Early Spring Kickstart: It’s perfect for giving your lawn that jolt of green-up power right after winter dormancy. The nitrogen fuels rapid leaf and grass blade growth, getting your yard looking lush again.
  • Nitrogen-Hungry Plants: If you have leafy greens like lettuce or spinach, or even heavy-feeding vegetables like corn, a 28-0-3 will satisfy their nitrogen cravings and boost growth.
  • Established Lawns: Sometimes, established lawns only need an extra boost of nitrogen to maintain their color and density. Using a 28-0-3 avoids unnecessary phosphorus and potassium buildup.

Remember, this fertilizer is quite concentrated. Always follow the application instructions carefully and consider these factors:

  • Soil Test: It’s best to know your soil’s nutrient levels before using such a high-nitrogen fertilizer. You might not need it if your soil is already nitrogen-rich.
  • Potential Runoff: Be mindful of over-application, as excess nitrogen can easily run off and pollute waterways.

When to water after granular fertilizer?

The best thing to do is water immediately after applying granular fertilizer. Here’s why:

  • Activation: Water is what helps those little fertilizer granules break down and release their nutrients into the soil. Without watering, they’ll just sit there, not doing your plants much good.
  • Even Distribution: Watering helps the fertilizer dissolve and spread more evenly throughout the soil, ensuring your plants have equal access to the nutrients.
  • Root Absorption: The dissolved nutrients need to get down to the roots where your plants can actually use them. A good soaking helps with this process.

How much you water depends on a few factors like soil type and your climate, but usually, you want a good, deep watering that saturates the top few inches of soil. The idea is to get the nutrients into the root zone, not just wet the surface.

Do succulents need fertilizer?

While succulents are pretty low-maintenance, a little fertilizer can definitely boost their growth and make them healthier! Think of it like an occasional healthy treat for your little desert dwellers. Here’s the deal:

  • Not All the Time: Succulents don’t need regular fertilizing like some other plants. Too much can actually lead to weak, stretched-out growth that’s prone to problems.
  • Growing Season Boost: A light application of a balanced fertilizer during spring and summer, their active growing season, can give succulents the extra nutrients they need to put on new growth or produce those beautiful blooms.
  • Diluted Formula: Succulents are sensitive, so always use a diluted fertilizer, about half the strength recommended on the label.
  • Specific Needs: Some succulents might have particular fertilizer preferences depending on their type, so it’s worth doing a quick bit of research on the variety you have.

How much 19-19-19 fertilizer per acre for hay?

Here’s how to figure out how much 19-19-19 fertilizer you’ll need per acre for your hayfield. There are some important factors to consider:

1. Soil Test: The best starting point is getting a soil test. It will tell you exactly how much nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K) your soil already has, and what you need to add for optimal hay production.

2. Hay Yield Goal: How many tons of hay do you expect to harvest per acre? Hay removes a significant amount of nutrients, so your fertilizer needs will go up with your yield goals.

3. Fertilizer Calculations:

  • Focus on one nutrient: 19-19-19 is a balanced fertilizer, meaning you get equal parts N-P-K. Let’s say your soil test recommends adding 100 lbs of nitrogen per acre.
  • Conversion: Since 19-19-19 is 19% nitrogen, to get 100 lbs of actual nitrogen, you would need approximately 526 lbs of fertilizer (100 / 0.19 = 526)
  • Adjust per acre: Calculate how many square feet are in an acre (43,560 sq ft) and adjust the fertilizer amount needed proportionately.

Important Considerations:

  • Split Applications: Splitting fertilizer applications throughout the growing season reduces runoff and helps your hay utilize the nutrients more efficiently.
  • Other Nutrients: While your soil test might recommend 19-19-19, if it shows low levels of other nutrients, you’ll need to adjust your fertilizer choice.

Disclaimer: I’m not an agronomist, so always consult with a local agricultural extension service or specialist to get the most accurate fertilizer recommendations tailored to your specific situation.

Is 20 20 20 fertilizer good for tomatoes?

While 20-20-20 fertilizer can be used for tomatoes, it’s not the ideal choice, especially if they’re already fruiting. Here’s why:

  • High Nitrogen: Tomatoes need nitrogen, especially in their early growth stages, but too much when they start flowering and fruiting can lead to lush foliage but fewer and smaller tomatoes.
  • Imbalance for Fruiting: Tomatoes need more phosphorus and potassium to support flowering and fruit production than a 20-20-20 fertilizer provides.

When to use 20-20-20:

  • Seedlings and Early Growth: It’s okay in the beginning to support leafy growth before your tomato plants have flowers.
  • General-Purpose: If you’re fertilizing a variety of plants and don’t want to buy several fertilizers, it’s a decent all-rounder, but not optimal for tomatoes long-term.

Better Options:

  • Tomato-Specific Fertilizer: These have a different N-P-K ratio with a higher middle (phosphorus) and last number (potassium).
  • Organic Options: Compost, bone meal, and fish emulsion are great for building soil fertility and providing a balanced supply of nutrients over time.

What is dap fertilizer?

DAP stands for Diammonium Phosphate, and it’s a superstar in the world of fertilizers. Here’s what makes it so special:

  • Double the Nutrients: DAP packs a punch with both nitrogen (N) and phosphorus (P), two of the three essential macronutrients for plant growth.
  • High Concentration: A typical DAP fertilizer has an N-P-K ratio of 18-46-0, meaning it’s 18% nitrogen and 46% phosphorus. This high concentration makes it efficient to transport and store.
  • Water Solubility: DAP dissolves quickly in water, so your plants can start absorbing those nutrients fast. This makes it versatile for various application methods, including fertigation (fertilizing through irrigation systems).
  • Temporary pH Boost: Interestingly, when DAP dissolves, it creates a slightly alkaline zone around the granule. For crops that struggle in acidic soils, this temporary boost can help them better access the phosphorus.

Common Uses of DAP:

  • Starter Fertilizer: Provides a boost of nitrogen and phosphorus to get young plants off to a strong start.
  • General Field Crops: A popular choice for crops like wheat, corn, and soybeans.
  • Blending: DAP is a common ingredient in fertilizer blends, where it’s mixed with other components to create formulas tailored to specific crops or soil needs.

Can you put fertilizer on wet grass?

Yes, you can put fertilizer on wet grass, but there are a few things to keep in mind:

Granular Fertilizer:

  • Best Option: Granular fertilizers are usually the safest bet for wet grass, as they are less likely to stick to the blades and potentially cause burn.
  • Watering In: It’s still a good idea to water the lawn after applying granular fertilizer on wet grass to help dissolve the granules and move the nutrients into the soil.
  • Avoid Saturated Soil: If the ground is utterly saturated and there are puddles, it’s better to wait until it dries out a bit. Excess moisture can cause the fertilizer to run off before it can be absorbed.

Liquid Fertilizer

  • Risk of Leaf Burn: Applying liquid fertilizer to wet grass increases the chance of the nutrients sitting on the leaves and potentially causing fertilizer burn, especially in hot weather.
  • Best Practice: It’s recommended to apply liquid fertilizer to dry grass whenever possible.

General Tips:

  • Light Rain: A little drizzle is usually no problem.
  • Follow Instructions: Always refer to the fertilizer label for specific guidelines, as some products might have different recommendations.
  • Over-Fertilization Risk: It’s more important to avoid over-fertilizing than worrying too much about applying it to wet grass. Too much fertilizer can harm your lawn and the environment.

How long does fertilizer take to work?

The speed at which you’ll see results from fertilizer depends on a few factors:

Type of Fertilizer:

  • Fast-Release (Synthetic): These dissolve quickly, delivering nutrients to plants within days, sometimes even hours. You’ll see a rapid green-up and growth spurt.
  • Slow-Release (Organic or Synthetic): These release nutrients gradually over a few weeks or even months. Effects are more subtle but last longer, promoting sustained growth and better soil health.

Form of Fertilizer:

  • Granular: Needs to dissolve with water, so it takes a bit longer for plants to access the nutrients, sometimes a few days up to a week.
  • Liquid: Gets absorbed faster, often showing results within a few days, especially when applied to foliage.

Environmental Factors:

  • Soil Temperature: Warm soil encourages microbial activity, which helps break down fertilizers faster, speeding up nutrient availability.
  • Moisture: Adequate soil moisture helps dissolve granular fertilizers and aids in nutrient uptake by plants.

Plant Needs:

  • Deficient Plants: If your plants are very nutrient-deficient, they might respond quicker to fertilizer than healthy ones.

Generally:

  • Fast-Release: Expect to see results within 1-2 weeks.
  • Slow-Release: Changes might be noticeable after 2-4 weeks, with full benefits over a longer period.

Is 16-16-16 fertilizer good for fruit trees?

Whether 16-16-16 fertilizer is good for your fruit trees depends on a few things:

Benefits:

  • Balanced Nutrition: 16-16-16 offers a good balance of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, which are essential for overall growth, flowering, and fruit development.
  • Young Trees: It can be helpful for young fruit trees, encouraging strong early growth and establishment.

Considerations:

  • Soil Test: The best way to know what your trees need is to get a soil test. You might have enough of one or more of those nutrients already.
  • Tree Age: Mature fruit trees often have different needs than young trees. They may need less nitrogen and benefit from fertilizers with micronutrients, particularly if you’re experiencing fruit quality or yield issues.
  • Fruit Type: Some fruit trees are heavier feeders than others. Citrus, for example, usually benefits from more nitrogen.

Alternatives:

  • Fruit Tree Specific Fertilizers: These have NPK ratios tailored for fruit production and might include additional micronutrients.
  • Organic Options: Compost, well-rotted manure, and other organic amendments release nutrients slowly and improve soil health in the long run.

Overall: 16-16-16 can be useful for a general boost, but it’s not always the ideal fertilizer for fruit trees. Knowing the age, type of your tree, and your soil conditions will help you make the best fertilizer choice!

Is duck poop good fertilizer?

Yes, duck poop is a fantastic fertilizer! Here’s why it’s a gardener’s secret weapon:

  • Packed with Nutrients: Duck poop is rich in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (N-P-K), the essential building blocks for healthy plant growth, flowering and fruiting.
  • Less Burning Potential: Unlike some manures, duck poop has a lower concentration of nitrogen, reducing the risk of burning your plants.
  • Microbe Power: Duck poop fosters healthy, diverse soil life by introducing beneficial microorganisms that further break down nutrients and improve soil structure.
  • Availability: If you have ducks, it’s a readily available, free, and sustainable fertilizer source.

How to Use It:

  • Composting: The safest and best way! Mix it with other materials in your compost pile and let it break down completely. This reduces any potential pathogens and creates a nutrient-rich soil amendment.
  • Direct Application (with caution): You can use fresh duck poop directly on established plants, but avoid young seedlings. It’s best to dilute it in water (duck poop tea!) or spread a thin layer that you work lightly into the soil.

While duck poop is fantastic, remember that too much of any fertilizer can be harmful! Always start small and observe your plants’ response.

When to apply starter fertilizer?

The best time to apply starter fertilizer depends on what you’re planting:

New Sod or Seed:

  • Right Before Laying Sod: Apply the starter fertilizer directly to the prepared soil surface just before laying down new sod.
  • When Sowing Seed: Apply starter fertilizer to the prepared soil and lightly rake it in before spreading your grass seed.

Existing Lawns:

  • Early Spring: For a boost of growth right after winter dormancy, apply starter fertilizer to your established lawn in early spring.
  • Overseeding: If you’re overseeding, apply starter fertilizer at the same time or right after spreading the new seed.

Vegetable Gardens:

  • At Planting Time: Work starter fertilizer into the soil around each vegetable plant at the time of planting.

Important Factors:

  • Soil Test: A soil test is always the best way to know exactly what your soil needs. You might not need a starter fertilizer with high phosphorus, for example.
  • Type of Starter Fertilizer: Follow the label instructions for your specific fertilizer to determine the best timing and application methods.

When to apply winterizer fertilizer?

The ideal time to apply winterizer fertilizer is in late fall, usually around these points:

  • After Growth Slows: Wait until your lawn stops actively growing, but the grass blades are still green. Applying too early can promote a surge of growth, making it more susceptible to winter damage.
  • Before the Ground Freezes: Ideally, you want to apply winterizer fertilizer a few weeks before the ground freezes. This gives the nutrients time to soak in and reach the roots, where they’ll do the most good.
  • Specific Timing Varies: The right time depends on your region. A good rule of thumb is 3-4 weeks before your typical first hard frost. You can look up average frost dates for your area online.

Why Winterizer Matters:

  • Root Support: Winterizer fertilizers typically have a higher potassium content, helping your lawn develop strong roots for the winter.
  • Winter Resilience: It prepares your grass to handle the stresses of cold weather, reducing winter damage.
  • Spring Green-up: A healthy root system leads to better spring recovery and greener grass when the weather warms up.

Remember: Consult your local extension service or a gardening center for the most accurate recommendations for your specific region and grass type.

When to use 28 0 3 fertilizer?

A 28-0-3 fertilizer is best used when you want to give your plants a strong shot of nitrogen without any extra phosphorus or potassium. Here are the scenarios where it’s most useful:

Lawns:

  • Early-Spring Kickstart: Apply in early spring to wake up your lawn from winter dormancy and kickstart rapid leaf growth, resulting in a lush green carpet.
  • Nitrogen-Only Boost: If your established lawn only needs a nitrogen boost to maintain color and density, a 28-0-3 avoids excess buildup of other nutrients.

Leafy Vegetables:

  • Growth Spurt: For leafy greens like lettuce, spinach, and kale, a 28-0-3 promotes vigorous foliage growth for bigger, tastier harvests.
  • Heavy Feeders: Some vegetables, like corn, thrive on high nitrogen fertilizers, and a 28-0-3 fits the bill.

When to Be Cautious:

  • Before Flowering: Avoid using right before flowering and fruit formation in most plants, as too much nitrogen can lead to lush foliage at the expense of blooms and fruit yield.
  • Soil Test First: A soil test is always the best starting point. If your soil is already nitrogen-rich, a 28-0-3 could be overkill.
  • Potential Runoff: Excess nitrogen can pollute waterways, so use responsibly, especially near water sources.

Can fertilizer kill cats?

Yes, fertilizer can kill cats, and it’s important to be aware of the dangers. Here’s how:

  • Ingestion: If a cat ingests fertilizer, it can cause poisoning. The severity depends on the type and amount of fertilizer eaten. Symptoms can include vomiting, diarrhea, abdominal pain, difficulty breathing, seizures, and even death.
  • Skin Contact: Fertilizers can irritate a cat’s skin, especially the paws. If they lick their paws after stepping on fertilizer, they can ingest some and get sick.

Types of Fertilizers More Harmful:

  • Weed and Feed Products: These combine fertilizer and herbicide. Herbicides are specifically designed to kill plants and can be very toxic to animals.
  • Insecticides: Some fertilizers contain insecticides to kill lawn pests. These can be harmful to cats as well.

How to Prevent Fertilizer Poisoning:

  • Keep Fertilizers Out of Reach: Store them securely in a locked cabinet or shed, out of paws’ reach.
  • Clean Up Spills Immediately: Don’t allow pets near fertilizer spills until completely cleaned.
  • Wash After Application: If you’ve been applying fertilizer, wash your hands thoroughly and avoid petting your cat until you’ve changed clothes.
  • Know the Signs: Be aware of the symptoms of fertilizer poisoning and seek veterinary help immediately if you suspect your cat has ingested fertilizer.

Here are some resources for pet poisoning:

  • American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA) Animal Poison Control Center: (888) 426-4435
  • Pet Poison Helpline: (855) 777-1222

If you have any concerns about using fertilizer around your pets, it’s always best to consult with a veterinarian or gardening professional. They can advise you on safer fertilizer options or application methods to minimize risks.

Can fertilizer spikes kill trees?

Fertilizer spikes can potentially kill trees, but it depends on a few factors. Here’s why they might be risky:

  • Concentrated Dose: Fertilizer spikes contain a concentrated dose of nutrients in a small area around the base of the tree. This can be too much for the tree to absorb slowly, leading to root burn and damage.
  • Unbalanced Nutrition: Spikes typically have a pre-determined ratio of nutrients, which might not be ideal for your specific tree’s needs. An excess of certain nutrients can disrupt nutrient balance in the soil and harm the tree.
  • Attracts Pests: The concentrated nutrients in spikes can attract insects and other pests that can damage the tree’s root system.

Safer Alternatives:

  • Slow-Release Fertilizers: Opt for slow-release granular fertilizers broadcast around the tree’s drip line (outer edge of the canopy). These release nutrients gradually, minimizing the risk of burning.
  • Soil Testing: Get a soil test to determine the specific nutrient needs of your trees. This allows you to choose a fertilizer that addresses deficiencies without unnecessary extras.
  • Compost: Compost is a fantastic organic amendment that nourishes the soil and promotes healthy root growth over time.

Signs of Spike Damage:

  • Leaf scorch or burning
  • Wilting or stunted growth
  • Yellowing or browning leaves
  • Sudden decline in tree health

If you suspect fertilizer spike damage, it’s crucial to act quickly. Deep watering can help flush out some of the excess nutrients, but it’s best to consult with a certified arborist for proper diagnosis and treatment.

Overall, while fertilizer spikes offer a convenient way to fertilize trees, the potential risks outweigh the benefits in most cases. Opt for safer, more targeted methods to nourish your trees and avoid accidental harm.

How to dispose of fertilizer?

The proper way to dispose of fertilizer depends on the type of fertilizer you have and local regulations. Here are some general guidelines:

Usable Fertilizer:

  • Share it: If you have leftover usable fertilizer, see if a friend, neighbor, or community garden can use it. This is the most eco-friendly option!
  • Storage: If you want to keep leftover fertilizer, make sure that it’s stored in its original container with the label intact, securely sealed, and out of reach of children and pets.

Non-Usable Fertilizers:

  • Small amounts of dry fertilizer: Can generally be mixed with soil in a garden bed and watered in.
  • Small amounts of liquid fertilizer: Dilute heavily and apply to plants or lawn. However, do not do this if you’re concerned about its content (e.g., herbicides).
  • Large amounts of fertilizer OR fertilizers with herbicides/insecticides: Consider these hazardous waste. Contact your local waste management or hazardous waste disposal facility, as they often have dedicated drop-off points or collection days.

Here’s where to find more information:

  • Product Label: Always check the instructions on the fertilizer label for any specific disposal methods recommended by the manufacturer.
  • Local Resources: Here are some helpful websites to learn more about disposing of fertilizer and hazardous waste:
    • Earth911 Recycling Search
    • Contact your local municipality’s waste management website or hotline

Important Reminders:

  • Never pour fertilizer down the drain or into waterways. These nutrients can harm aquatic life and pollute water systems.
  • Empty fertilizer containers: Triple-rinse them and recycle if possible according to your local recycling program.

How to make liquid fertilizer?

There are several easy and effective ways to make your own liquid fertilizer at home. Here are a few popular methods:

  1. Compost Tea:
  • Ingredients:
    • Mature compost
    • Water (ideally dechlorinated)
    • Optional: Molasses (food for beneficial microbes)
  • Process:
    1. Place a burlap sack or cheesecloth bag filled with compost in a large bucket.
    2. Fill the bucket with water, leaving ample space for air circulation.
    3. Add a spoonful of molasses (optional).
    4. You can aerate the mixture with an aquarium pump or stir vigorously daily.
    5. Let it steep for 2-3 days. The tea is ready when it’s a dark brown color.
    6. Dilute the tea before applying to plants (usually a 1:10 ratio).
  1. Manure Tea:
  • Ingredients:
    • Aged manure (cow, horse, chicken, etc.)
    • Water (ideally dechlorinated)
    • Burlap sack or cheesecloth bag
  • Process:
    1. Place manure in the sack or cheesecloth bag.
    2. Submerge the bag in a bucket or barrel filled with water.
    3. Let it steep for several days or even a week, stirring occasionally.
    4. Dilute the resulting tea significantly before application (around a 1:20 ratio).
  1. Weed Tea:
  • Ingredients:
    • Common weeds (nettles, comfrey, dandelions)
    • Water (ideally dechlorinated)
    • Bucket or barrel
  • Process:
    1. Chop up weeds roughly.
    2. Fill the bucket about halfway with weeds and cover with water.
    3. Cover loosely and let it ferment for a few weeks, stirring occasionally. It will have an unpleasant smell!
    4. Strain the liquid and dilute well before applying (about a 1:10 ratio).

General Tips:

  • Dilution is key: Homemade liquid fertilizers are highly concentrated, so always dilute them with water before using them on plants.
  • Experiment: You can experiment with different ingredients and ratios to find what works best for your plants.
  • Consider the source: Use manure from healthy animals and organic sources.

How to store rabbit poop for fertilizer?

Storing rabbit poop for fertilizer is simple and easy! Here’s how to do it effectively:

Methods:

  1. Composting:
  • This is the best method for turning rabbit poop into a nutrient-rich soil amendment.
  • Mix the rabbit droppings with other compostable materials like kitchen scraps, leaves, and grass clippings in your compost bin or pile.
  • Regularly turn the compost to aid decomposition.
  • Mature compost is ready when it’s dark, crumbly, and smells earthy.
  1. Direct Storage:
  • If you don’t have a compost setup, you can store rabbit poop directly.
  • Collect the droppings in an airtight container like a bucket or plastic storage bin.
  • Store the container in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.
  • You can later add this stored manure directly to garden beds or mix it into potting soil.

Additional Tips:

  • Litter: If you use sawdust or straw as litter, that’s great for mixing into the compost or adding directly to the garden as well.
  • Fresh vs. Aged: If using directly on plants, it’s generally best to let the rabbit poop age slightly as fresh manure can be a little too strong.
  • Dilution: If you’re making a rabbit poop “tea” for liquid fertilizer, make sure to dilute it properly before applying.

Things to Avoid:

  • Storing Wet Manure: Avoid storing wet droppings, as they can become moldy and smelly.
  • Direct Sunlight: Storing rabbit poop in direct sunlight can break down nutrients and reduce its effectiveness.

Is 1-1-1 fertilizer the same as 10-10-10?

No, 1-1-1 fertilizer is not the same as 10-10-10 fertilizer. They differ significantly in the concentration of nutrients they contain. Here’s how:

Understanding N-P-K:

  • Fertilizer ratios are represented by three numbers, standing for Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus(P), and Potassium(K), always in that order.
  • Each number indicates the percentage of that nutrient by weight in the fertilizer bag.

Differences:

  • 1-1-1 Fertilizer: This means it contains 1% nitrogen, 1% phosphorus, and 1% potassium. It’s a very low-strength, balanced fertilizer.
  • 10-10-10 Fertilizer: This contains 10% of each nutrient, making it a significantly more concentrated fertilizer.

When to Use Each:

  • 1-1-1: Useful as a gentle, all-purpose fertilizer for regular maintenance or situations where you don’t want to add too many nutrients.
  • 10-10-10: A good option when your plants need a greater nutrient boost or if you’re fertilizing a larger area.

Is deer poop good fertilizer?

Deer poop can be used as fertilizer, but it has some considerations:

Pros:

  • Contains Nutrients: Deer poop has nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (N-P-K), essential for plant growth.
  • Adds Organic Matter: It improves soil structure and water retention.
  • Free and Readily Available: If you have deer in your area, it’s a convenient resource.

Cons:

  • Lower Nutrient Concentration: Compared to manure from livestock like cows or chickens, deer poop has a lower nutrient concentration due to their primarily plant-based diet.
  • Potential for Weed Seeds: If the deer have been feeding on weeds, the poop might contain viable weed seeds.
  • Risk of Parasites: There’s a small chance deer poop could carry parasites, especially if the deer is unhealthy.

How to Use It Safely:

  • Composting is Best: Composting deer poop thoroughly kills any potential pathogens, weed seeds, and helps concentrate nutrients. Add it to your compost pile like any other brown material.
  • Limited Direct Application: If you use it directly on the garden, do so sparingly on established plants, especially if you’re growing vegetables for consumption.

Alternatives:

  • Composted Cow or Horse Manure: These have a higher nutrient content and are often readily available.
  • Worm Castings: A fantastic soil amendment that’s rich in nutrients and beneficial microbes.

Overall: While deer poop can contribute to your garden’s soil health, it’s best used as a supplemental addition to your compost pile rather than a primary fertilizer source.

Is goose poop good fertilizer?

While goose poop does contain some nutrients plants need, it’s not generally considered a good fertilizer due to several factors:

Cons:

  • Low Nutrient Content: Similar to deer poop, goose poop has lower concentrations of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium than animal manures like chicken or cow.
  • High Water Content: Goose poop is mostly water, so the actual nutrients in a given quantity will be very low.
  • Potential for Pathogens: Geese often carry bacteria and parasites that could be harmful to humans, especially if you’re growing edible crops.
  • Weed Seeds: Their diet might include weeds, potentially introducing unwanted plants into your garden.
  • Mess and Inconvenience: Goose poop is unsightly and creates a mess in yards and gardens.

Better Alternatives:

  • Composted Manure: Manures from livestock like cows, horses, and chickens are much higher in nutrients and less likely to carry harmful pathogens if properly composted.
  • Worm Castings: An excellent, nutrient-rich fertilizer and soil amendment.
  • Slow-release Fertilizers: These offer a controlled release of nutrients, minimizing the risk of over-fertilization.

Composting Safety:

If you absolutely want to use goose poop, composting it thoroughly is the safest way. The high temperatures of a well-managed compost pile will kill most pathogens and weed seeds.

Overall, while you could technically use goose poop as a last resort after composting, there are far better and safer options for fertilizing your garden.

Is wood ash a good fertilizer?

Wood ash can be a good fertilizer, but it depends on how and where you use it. Here’s a breakdown of the pros and cons:

Pros:

  • Source of Potassium: Wood ash is a decent source of potassium, an essential nutrient for flowering, fruiting, and overall plant health.
  • Contains Micronutrients: It also contains various micronutrients that plants need in small amounts, including calcium and magnesium.
  • Raises Soil pH (Alkalizes): Wood ash has a liming effect, making it beneficial for acidic soils. If your soil is too acidic, wood ash can help raise the pH to a more favorable level for many plants.

Cons:

  • Low in N-P: Ash is very low in nitrogen (N) and phosphorus (P), the other two essential macronutrients. It’s not a complete fertilizer.
  • Can Harm Acid-Loving Plants: Blueberries, azaleas, rhododendrons, and others thrive in acidic soil. Using wood ash around them can be detrimental.
  • Salinity Issues: Excessive use can raise soil salt levels, harming plants.
  • Potential Heavy Metal Contamination: Ash from certain sources, like treated wood, might contain harmful heavy metals.

How to Use It Safely:

  • Soil Test First: Get your soil tested to determine both nutrient levels and pH before adding wood ash.
  • Use on Suitable Plants: Apply around vegetables or flowers that prefer slightly alkaline soil and benefit from extra potassium.
  • Moderation is Key: Apply wood ash sparingly. A light dusting is usually sufficient.
  • Avoid Burning Treated Wood: Never use ash from burning treated wood, painted wood, or wood with potential toxins.

Alternatives:

  • Balanced Fertilizers: If your plants need a balanced boost of N-P-K, use a commercial fertilizer or compost instead of relying on wood ash.
  • Compost: Mixing wood ash into your compost adds potassium and trace minerals to the final product.

Remember, wood ash is not a magic solution for all your garden needs. Used wisely, it can be a helpful tool, but indiscriminate use can do more harm than good!

Should you water after fertilizer?

Yes, in most cases, it’s highly recommended to water after applying fertilizer. Here’s why:

Granular Fertilizer:

  • Activation: Watering helps dissolve fertilizer granules, releasing their nutrients into the soil where roots can access them.
  • Distribution: Water helps spread the dissolved fertilizer more evenly throughout the soil, providing equal access to your plants.
  • Burn Prevention: Watering reduces the chance of fertilizer sitting on leaves or the soil surface, which can potentially cause burn.

Liquid Fertilizer:

  • Foliar Application: If your liquid fertilizer is for spraying on leaves, watering afterward is generally not necessary (check the product instructions).
  • Soil Application: When applying liquid fertilizer to the soil, watering afterward helps dilute it and move the nutrients into the root zone.

Additional Tips:

  • Watering Amount: A deep watering that saturates the top few inches of soil is usually ideal. Avoid creating puddles or runoff.
  • Time of Day: Water in the morning or evening to minimize evaporation.
  • Exceptions: Some specialized slow-release fertilizers are designed to be activated over time and don’t always require immediate watering (always follow label instructions).

Overall, watering after fertilizer helps ensure your plants get the maximum benefit from the nutrients and helps to prevent any potential problems.

What is 20 20 20 fertilizer?

20-20-20 fertilizer is a general-purpose, balanced fertilizer commonly used for various plants. Let’s break down what that means:

The Numbers (N-P-K):

  • 20-20-20: This refers to the ratio of the three primary macronutrients plants need: Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K).
  • Balanced: It contains equal parts (20%) of each macronutrient.

What It’s Good For:

  • Versatility: This balanced formula makes it suitable for many plants, including vegetables, flowers, and even some shrubs.
  • General Growth Boost: It provides essential nutrients for overall plant development, including leaf growth, flowering, and root development.
  • Correcting Deficiencies: If your soil lacks a balance of N-P-K, 20-20-20 can help supplement those needs.

Things to Consider:

  • Soil Test is Best: Before using 20-20-20, it’s ideal to get a soil test. This tells you what nutrients your soil is deficient in and helps you avoid over-fertilizing.
  • Specific Plant Needs: Some plants have specific fertilizer preferences. For example, tomatoes do best with a fertilizer higher in phosphorus for fruit production.
  • Mature Plants: Established plants may not always need the high nitrogen found in 20-20-20, as excess nitrogen can promote excessive foliage growth at the expense of flowers and fruit.

What is starter fertilizer?

Starter fertilizer is a specialized fertilizer designed to give plants a strong boost as they start their growth cycle. Here’s what makes it special:

High in Phosphorus:

  • Starter fertilizers usually have a higher middle number in the N-P-K ratio, which represents phosphorus (P).
  • Phosphorus is crucial for young plants, supporting root development, energy transfer, and early flowering and fruiting.

Benefits of Starter Fertilizer:

  • Root Establishment: A strong root system is the foundation for healthy plant growth, and phosphorus helps establish those roots early.
  • Faster Growth: Giving seedlings and new plantings an extra boost of nutrients helps them get off to a quick start and become more robust.
  • Transplant Success: Starter fertilizer helps reduce transplant shock and encourages faster recovery.

Common Uses:

  • Vegetable Gardens: Applying starter fertilizer at the time of planting gives your vegetables a headstart for a bountiful harvest.
  • New Lawns: Incorporating starter fertilizer when seeding or laying sod promotes rapid root development and thicker grass.
  • Flower Beds: Starter fertilizer supports vigorous early growth and beautiful blooms.

Types of Starter Fertilizer:

  • Granular: Sprinkled on the soil or mixed in at planting time.
  • Liquid: Diluted and applied to the soil around plants.
  • Fertilizer Spikes: Pushed into the soil near roots for slow release.

Remember: While starter fertilizer is a great tool, it’s not always necessary. A soil test will reveal if your soil actually needs that extra phosphorus boost. Also, over-fertilizing can be harmful, so always follow the instructions on the label carefully.

What is the best fertilizer for seedlings?

While the absolute “best” fertilizer for seedlings depends on specific factors, here’s what to look for and some recommendations:

Priorities for Seedlings:

  • Gentle Formula: Seedlings are delicate, so you want a fertilizer that’s less concentrated than ones you’d use for mature plants.
  • Phosphorus Focus: Young plants prioritize root development, so a slightly higher phosphorus (the middle number in the N-P-K ratio) is beneficial.

Good Fertilizer Options:

  • Diluted Balanced Fertilizer: A standard 10-10-10 fertilizer diluted to half or quarter strength can be a good option.
  • Compost Tea: This gentle liquid fertilizer provides a balanced dose of nutrients and beneficial microbes.
  • Fish Emulsion: This natural fertilizer is rich in nitrogen but can be a bit smelly. Dilute it well.
  • Worm Castings: A fantastic soil amendment that adds nutrients slowly and improves soil health.

Things to Consider:

  • Potting Mix: If you’re using a high-quality potting mix specifically for seedlings, it likely already contains some mild fertilizer. Be cautious about additional fertilizing early on.
  • Type of Seedling: Some seedlings are heavier feeders than others. Tomatoes, for example, might benefit from more frequent light fertilizing.

When to Start Fertilizing:

  • True Leaves: Usually, wait until your seedlings have a couple sets of true leaves (beyond the initial sprout leaves).
  • Frequency: Fertilize every 2-3 weeks with a diluted solution. Observe your seedlings – if they look pale or grow slowly, you can fertilize a bit more frequently.

Important:

  • Start gently and observe: It’s easier to correct a slight nutrient deficiency than to deal with overfertilized, burned seedlings.
  • Soil Moisture: Fertilize with liquid fertilizer when the soil is already slightly damp to avoid root shock.

When to use ammonium sulfate fertilizer?

Ammonium sulfate fertilizer is best used in the following scenarios:

  1. Lowering Soil pH:
  • Ammonium sulfate is an acidifying fertilizer. If you have alkaline soil (pH higher than 7), it helps lower the pH, creating a more favorable environment for acid-loving plants like:
    • Blueberries
    • Azaleas
    • Rhododendrons
    • Hydrangeas (for blue blooms)
  1. Nitrogen Boost:
  • Ammonium sulfate contains 21% nitrogen and a readily available form for plants. It’s great for:
    • Leafy vegetables (lettuce, spinach, kale): Encourages lush foliage
    • Lawns: Promotes a quick green-up
  1. Sulfur Supplement:
  • Some plants benefit from extra sulfur, and ammonium sulfate provides that boost.
  • Deficiency Correction: If a soil test reveals low sulfur, ammonium sulfate addresses that.

When to Avoid:

  • Acidic Soil: If your soil is already acidic (below pH 7), ammonium sulfate can worsen the situation.
  • Excess Nitrogen: Using it when plants don’t need that extra nitrogen can lead to lush foliage at the expense of flowers and fruit, or even burn the roots.

Important things to Remember:

  • Soil Test: It’s the best way to determine if you need to lower pH and if ammonium sulfate is appropriate.
  • Time of Year: Apply early in the growing season to leafy crops and lawns for a nitrogen boost. For acidifying the soil, application can be more spread out throughout the year.
  • Moderation: Overuse of ammonium sulfate can significantly acidify your soil.
  • Application: Avoid applying it directly onto leaves and water thoroughly after application.

Is 13 13 13 fertilizer good for lawns?

Yes, 13-13-13 fertilizer can be good for lawns, but it depends on a few factors:

Benefits:

  • Balanced Nutrients: 13-13-13 provides a balanced dose of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K), the essential macronutrients for healthy lawn growth.
  • Quick Green-up: The nitrogen helps promote lush green foliage.
  • General Purpose: It’s a good all-around fertilizer for maintaining a healthy lawn.

Considerations:

  • Soil Test: A soil test is always the best starting point. It reveals your soil’s existing nutrient levels, so you can choose a fertilizer that actually addresses your lawn’s needs. You might not need all the extra phosphorus and potassium in 13-13-13.
  • Overuse: Applying too much 13-13-13 (or any fertilizer) can harm your lawn and contribute to nutrient runoff into waterways.
  • Lawn Type: Some grasses may have specific needs that a 13-13-13 doesn’t fully address.

Alternatives:

  • Specialized Lawn Fertilizers: These often have N-P-K ratios tailored for different grass types and include other beneficial ingredients.
  • Organic Options: Compost and organic fertilizers improve soil health and release nutrients slowly over time.

When to Use 13-13-13:

  • If you don’t want to get a soil test and need a general all-purpose fertilizer, 13-13-13 is a decent choice.
  • If your lawn is lacking in overall vigor and color, 13-13-13 can give it a boost.

Is bird poop good fertilizer?

While bird poop does contain some nutrients that can benefit plants, it’s not generally considered an ideal fertilizer source. Here’s why:

Pros:

  • Contains Nutrients: Bird poop has some nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (N-P-K), the essential components for plant growth.

Cons:

  • Low Nutrient Concentration: Compared to manure from animals like chickens or cows, bird poop has significantly lower nutrient content.
  • Potential for Pathogens: Birds can carry bacteria and parasites harmful to humans, especially if you’re growing fruits and vegetables.
  • Weed Seeds: Depending on a bird’s diet, their poop could contain weed seeds, leading to unwanted plants in your garden.
  • Burns Plants: The nitrogen in fresh bird poop is often too concentrated and can burn plants if applied directly.
  • Messy: Bird poop is unsightly and can create a mess in gardens and landscaped areas.

Safe Use:

  • Composting is Key: The best way to utilize bird poop safely is by composting it thoroughly. The high temperatures during composting kill pathogens and weed seeds, making it a better soil additive.
  • Limited Direct Use: If you must use it directly, do so sparingly around established plants and avoid edible crops.

Better Alternatives:

  • Composted Manures: Manures from livestock are much richer in nutrients and less likely to carry pathogens if properly composted.
  • Worm Castings: A fantastic soil amendment packed with nutrients and beneficial microbes.
  • Balanced Commercial Fertilizers: These provide a controlled, safe way to address specific plant nutrient needs.

While it’s tempting to think of bird poop as “free fertilizer,” there are far better, safer, and more effective options for boosting your garden’s fertility.

What fertilizer for corn?

Choosing the best fertilizer for corn depends on a few factors, but generally, a nitrogen-rich fertilizer is key with some additional considerations:

Fertilizer Ratios (N-P-K):

  • High Nitrogen (N): Corn is a heavy feeder, especially of nitrogen. Look for fertilizers with a higher first number in the N-P-K ratio.
  • Some Phosphorus (P): Important for root development and overall plant health, especially in younger corn. Some potassium (K) is also needed.
  • Examples:
    • 32-10-10 (common for many crops)
    • Urea (46-0-0) – purely nitrogen
    • Ammonium nitrate (34-0-0) – another source of nitrogen

Fertilizer Type:

  • Granular: Applied before planting and/or as a side dressing.
  • Liquid: Easy to apply, especially if additional nitrogen is needed mid-season.
  • Organic Options: Compost, fish emulsion, and manure provide nutrients and improve soil health.

Application Stages:

  • Pre-Planting: Incorporate a balanced fertilizer into the soil.
  • Side-Dressing: When corn is around knee-high, apply a nitrogen-rich fertilizer in a band along the sides of the rows.
  • Foliar Application: Liquid fertilizer can be sprayed on leaves for a quick boost if deficiencies are noticed.

Important Considerations:

  • Soil Test: Always start with a soil test! It tells you the existing nutrient levels in your soil and prevents over-fertilizing.
  • Corn Variety: Sweet corn might have slightly different fertilizer needs from field corn grown for animal feed.

What fertilizer is high in phosphorus?

Here are some fertilizer options with a high phosphorus content (the middle number in the N-P-K ratio):

Common High-Phosphorus Fertilizers:

  • Triple Super Phosphate (0-46-0): One of the most concentrated sources of phosphorus, ideal for correcting phosphorus deficiencies.
  • Bone Meal (0-10-0 or similar): A natural source of phosphorus, also provides a good amount of calcium. It’s slow-release, making it less likely to burn plants.
  • Monoammonium Phosphate (11-52-0): Highly soluble and quickly available for plants. Often used in greenhouse and hydroponic systems.

Fertilizers with Moderate Phosphorus:

  • 10-20-10: A balanced fertilizer with a decent amount of phosphorus.
  • Fish Emulsion (5-1-1 or similar ratios): Natural fertilizer, often diluted before use. Good source of nitrogen, phosphorus, and trace nutrients.

Choosing the Right Fertilizer:

  • Soil Test is Key: Before choosing a high-phosphorus fertilizer, get a soil test to determine if you actually need it. Overuse of phosphorus can cause problems.
  • Plant Needs: Some plants, like tomatoes and peppers, benefit immensely from extra phosphorus for flowering and fruiting. Others might not need it as much.

Additional Considerations:

  • Organic Options: Compost and rock phosphate are slower-release sources of phosphorus.
  • Label Instructions: Always follow the instructions on the fertilizer label carefully to avoid over-application.

What fertilizer makes flowers bloom?

Fertilizers with a higher phosphorus content (the middle number in the N-P-K ratio) typically encourage more blooms on flowering plants. Here’s why:

Phosphorus Power:

  • Essential for Flowering: Phosphorus plays a crucial role in flower bud development, fruit formation, and overall plant energy transfer.
  • Root Growth: It also supports strong root growth, which indirectly helps flowering by providing a solid foundation for the plant to draw resources from.

Fertilizer Examples:

  • High-Phosphorus Bloom Boosters: Look for fertilizers labeled as “bloom booster” or “blossom booster.” These often have ratios like 10-30-20 or 5-50-17.
  • Bone Meal: A natural, slow-release source of phosphorus (and calcium) that’s great for flowering plants.
  • Balanced with Some Nitrogen: Too much nitrogen makes plants focus on leafy growth. Look for fertilizers that have some nitrogen (first number), but a significantly higher phosphorus content.

Additional Tips:

  • Plant Type Matters: Some plants are naturally heavy bloomers, while others need more support. Research the particular needs of your flowering plants.
  • Don’t Overdo It: Excessive fertilizer won’t create endless blooms and can damage your plants.
  • Sun and Water: Ensure flowering plants get enough sunlight and consistent watering for optimal bloom production.
  • Deadheading: Removing spent blooms encourages many plants to produce more.

What fertilizer to use to thicken grass?

Here’s your guide to choosing the best fertilizer for a thicker, lusher lawn:

Focus on Nitrogen:

  • Nitrogen (N): The key nutrient for promoting lush green growth and leaf blade development, thickening your lawn.
  • High-Nitrogen Fertilizers: Look for fertilizers with a high first number in the N-P-K ratio, like 20-5-10 or similar.

Other Considerations:

  • Soil Test: Always start with a soil test. You might have plenty of other nutrients and only need the nitrogen boost.
  • Slow-Release vs. Fast-Release:
    • Slow-release: Provides steady nutrition over a longer period, promoting sustained growth and thickening
    • Fast-release: Gives a quick green-up but requires more frequent applications.
  • Organic Options: Compost, composted manure, or organic lawn fertilizers improve soil health and contribute to long-term lawn thickness.

Additional Tips for a Thick Lawn:

  • Mowing High: Keep your grass blades a little taller (3-4 inches for many cool-season grasses). This encourages deeper root growth and a denser lawn.
  • Overseeding: Introduce new grass seed in the fall or spring to fill in bare patches.
  • Proper Watering: Deep, infrequent watering promotes a healthy root system that supports a thick lawn.

What is 30 10 10 fertilizer used for?

A 30-10-10 fertilizer is a high-nitrogen fertilizer often used for:

  • Quick Green-Up: The high nitrogen (30%) promotes rapid leaf growth, resulting in a lush, deep green color. Great if your plants or lawn look pale and lackluster.
  • Leafy Vegetables: Encourages vigorous foliage growth in crops like lettuce, spinach, kale, and other leafy greens.
  • Lawns: Boosts lawn growth and color, especially when a second application of nitrogen isn’t feasible. (Think of using this on things like Sudan grass as a one-time application.)
  • Heavy Feeders: Some plants, like corn, particularly during their rapid growth phase, benefit from the high nitrogen content.

Important Considerations:

  • Soil Test: Before using 30-10-10, it’s ideal to get a soil test to avoid over-applying nitrogen, which can lead to excess foliage at the expense of flowers/fruit, or even environmental pollution from runoff.
  • Timing: Apply this type of fertilizer during periods of active growth.
  • Plant Type: While 30-10-10 benefits leafy plants, it might not be ideal for those needing more phosphorus to encourage flowering and fruiting.

Alternatives:

  • Balanced Fertilizers: If your soil doesn’t show a significant nitrogen deficiency, a balanced fertilizer like 10-10-10 might be a safer choice.
  • Organic Options: Compost or natural fertilizers often provide a more balanced release of nutrients over time.

What is map fertilizer?

MAP stands for Monoammonium Phosphate, a common fertilizer known for its high phosphorus and nitrogen content. Here’s what you need to know:

Composition:

  • A water-soluble fertilizer containing both phosphorus (P) and nitrogen (N) in a readily available form for plants.
  • Typical N-P-K ratio of 11-52-0 (or sometimes 12-61-0), making it a go-to fertilizer for boosting phosphorus levels.

Benefits:

  • Increased Root Development: Promotes strong root growth, essential for plant health and nutrient uptake.
  • Boosts Flowering and Fruiting: Essential for flower formation, fruit production, and overall plant energy transfer.
  • Quick Absorption: The water-soluble form means nutrients are quickly absorbed by plants.

Common Uses:

  • Pre-Planting Application: Often incorporated into the soil before planting to correct a phosphorus deficiency or provide an initial nutrient boost.
  • Starter Fertilizer: Used in starter fertilizer mixes to support seedling growth.
  • Established Plants: Can be used as a side-dressing to deliver nutrients throughout the growing season.
  • Hydroponics: MAP is a popular fertilizer in hydroponic systems due to its water solubility and nutrient concentration.

Important Considerations:

  • Soil Test: It’s always best to start with a soil test to determine actual nutrient needs, especially before using a fertilizer with such a high phosphorus content.
  • Acidifying Effect: MAP can slightly lower soil pH over time.
  • Compatibility: Be cautious when mixing with other fertilizers, as MAP can react with some components.

What is pre emergent fertilizer?

Pre-emergent fertilizer is a type of herbicide disguised as fertilizer! Here’s why it’s important to understand how it works:

What it does:

  • Prevents Weed Seed Germination: Pre-emergent fertilizers contain active ingredients that create a chemical barrier at the soil surface. This barrier stops weed seeds from germinating and sprouting.
  • Doesn’t Kill Existing Weeds: It’s important to note that pre-emergents only work on seeds, not established weeds.

When to use it:

  • Timing is Key: Apply pre-emergent fertilizer before weed seeds start germinating. This usually means:
    • Early Spring: For targeting summer annual weeds like crabgrass.
    • Fall: To prevent winter annual weeds.
  • After Existing Weeds Removed: If you have existing weeds, remove them before applying pre-emergent.

What’s in it:

  • Active Ingredients: Common active ingredients in pre-emergent fertilizers include:
    • Prodiamine
    • Pendimethalin
    • Dithiopyr
  • Fertilizer Component: While some pre-emergents only have the herbicide, many are combined with fertilizer (usually nitrogen-based) to give your lawn a boost at the same time.

Cautions:

  • Overuse: Applying too often can prevent ALL seeds from germinating, including grass seed if you’re overseeding.
  • Non-Selective: Pre-emergent doesn’t discriminate between weeds and desirable plants. Avoid using it in areas where you’ll be planting flower or vegetable seeds.

Alternatives:

  • Mulch: A thick layer of mulch acts as a physical barrier for weed seed germination.
  • Hand Weeding: Best for existing weeds and spot control.
  • Targeted Post-Emergent Herbicides: These kill existing weeds without harming your desired plants.

When to water after fertilizer?

Yes, in most cases, it’s highly recommended to water after applying fertilizer. Here’s why:

For Granular Fertilizer:

  • Activation: Watering helps dissolve fertilizer granules, releasing their nutrients into the soil where roots can access them.
  • Distribution: Water helps spread the dissolved fertilizer more evenly throughout the soil, providing equal access to your plants.
  • Burn Prevention: Watering reduces the chance of fertilizer sitting on leaves or the soil surface, which can potentially cause burn.

For Liquid Fertilizer:

  • Foliar Application: If your liquid fertilizer is for spraying on leaves, watering afterward is generally not necessary (check the product instructions).
  • Soil Application: When applying liquid fertilizer to the soil, watering afterward helps dilute it and move the nutrients into the root zone.

Tips:

  • Watering Amount: A deep watering that saturates the top few inches of soil is usually ideal. Avoid creating puddles or runoff.
  • Time of Day: Water in the morning or evening to minimize evaporation.
  • Exceptions: Some specialized slow-release fertilizers are designed to be activated over time and don’t always require immediate watering (always follow label instructions).

Overall, watering after fertilizer helps ensure your plants get the maximum benefit from the nutrients and helps to prevent any potential problems.

Can sargassum be used as fertilizer?

Yes, sargassum seaweed can be used as a fertilizer, but it’s important to understand both the benefits and potential issues:

Benefits:

  • Nutrient Rich: Sargassum contains nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium (N-P-K), along with other micronutrients essential for plant health.
  • Soil Amendment: Improves soil structure, water retention, and microbial activity.
  • Salinity: Provides some natural salts, which might be beneficial for certain crops.

Considerations:

  • Salt Content: Excessive salts can be harmful to plants, especially in sensitive varieties. Washing or composting sargassum before use can help reduce salt levels.
  • Heavy Metal Concerns: Depending on where it’s sourced, sargassum might contain trace amounts of heavy metals. Composting helps break down these potential contaminants.
  • Fresh vs. Aged: Fresh sargassum can be smelly and release salt as it decomposes. Composting or partially drying it is usually recommended.

How to Use Sargassum as Fertilizer:

  • Composting: The best way to utilize sargassum and mitigate potential downsides. Mix it with other compostable materials to create a nutrient-rich soil amendment.
  • Mulch: Partially dried sargassum can be used as mulch around plants, suppressing weeds and adding nutrients as it breaks down.
  • Direct Application: Use sparingly and with caution, especially on young plants. Consider washing it first to remove some salts.

Overall: Sargassum can be a valuable fertilizer resource, but proper handling and preparation are key to maximizing its benefits while avoiding potential problems.

How deep to bury fish for fertilizer?

While burying whole fish was a traditional gardening practice, here’s why it’s better to take a different approach:

Problems with Deep Burying:

  • Attracting Animals: Deeply buried fish may still release a strong odor, attracting scavengers like raccoons, dogs, and other critters to dig them up.
  • Slow Decomposition: Deep burial slows decomposition due to limited oxygen and microbial activity, meaning it can take a long time for the nutrients to become available to plants.
  • Root Accessibility: Burying fish too deep puts the nutrients out of reach for shallow-rooted plants.

Better Methods:

  1. Composting: The best way to utilize fish remains for fertilizer! Add them to your compost bin and let nature break them down rapidly and safely into a nutrient-rich soil amendment.
  2. Shallow Burial (With a Twist):
    • If you insist on direct burial, bury fish only 6-8 inches deep.
    • Plant Directly Above: Plant your seedling or plant directly above the burial spot to ensure roots quickly access the released nutrients.
  3. Fish Emulsion: A commercial liquid fertilizer made from fish byproducts, offering a concentrated, ready-to-use source of fish nutrients without the hassle or smell.

Important Notes:

  • Whole Fish vs. Scraps: Burying whole fish takes longer to decompose. Fish scraps, guts, and heads break down much faster.
  • Location: If directly burying, choose a spot away from your house and areas where you frequently spend time to reduce the odor issue.

Is liquid fertilizer better than granular?

It’s not a matter of one being universally better than the other – both liquid and granular fertilizers have their pros and cons. The best choice depends on specific situations and needs.

Liquid Fertilizer:

Pros:

  • Quick Absorption: Nutrients are readily available in liquid form, providing a fast nutrient boost and visible results.
  • Foliar Application: Can be sprayed directly on leaves for rapid nutrient uptake, especially useful for correcting deficiencies.
  • Versatility: Suitable for a wide range of plants, including houseplants and container gardens.
  • Easier Application in Some Cases: Can be easier to distribute evenly than granular, especially in tight spaces or for seedlings.

Cons:

  • Frequent Reapplication: Nutrients are released quickly, often requiring more frequent applications.
  • Potential for Over-Fertilization: Easy to over-apply, leading to fertilizer burn.
  • Cost: Generally more expensive than granular for the comparable amount of nutrients.

Granular Fertilizer:

Pros:

  • Longer Lasting: Slow-release formulas provide nutrients over an extended period, reducing application frequency.
  • Less Frequent Applications: Ideal for busy gardeners and plants with less urgent nutrient needs.
  • Less ‘Burn’ Risk: Less likely to cause fertilizer burn compared to liquid fertilizers due to gradual release.
  • Often More Cost-Effective: Provides more nutrients per dollar when buying in bulk.

Cons:

  • Slower Results: Nutrients take time to dissolve and become available to plants.
  • Potential Uneven Distribution: Can be harder to spread evenly, especially in smaller areas.
  • Requires Watering: Needs to be watered in to start releasing nutrients.

When to Choose Which:

  • Quick Fix: For a fast green-up or to correct a deficiency, liquid fertilizer is better.
  • Long-term Maintenance: Granular fertilizers are a good choice for routine feeding throughout the growing season.
  • Plant Type: Consider whether your plant benefits from quick action (liquid) or a steady nutrient supply (granular).

What is the best fertilizer for centipede grass?

Centipede grass is a low-maintenance turfgrass, thriving on less fertilizer than other warm-season grasses. Here’s what makes a good fertilizer for Centipede:

Balanced with Lower Nitrogen:

  • N-P-K Ratios: Look for fertilizers with a balanced N-P-K ratio like 5-10-15 or 8-16-24, where the first number (nitrogen) is lower or equal to the others. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers.
  • Minimal Nitrogen: Centipede needs some nitrogen for color but too much promotes excessive growth, thatch buildup, and susceptibility to disease.

Other Important Factors:

  • Slow-Release: A slow-release formula provides a steady supply of nutrients without drastic growth surges.
  • Iron Supplement: Centipede tends to show signs of iron deficiency (yellowing). A fertilizer with supplemental iron is beneficial.
  • Potassium: Potassium (the last number in N-P-K) contributes to disease resistance and winter hardiness.
  • Soil Test: Always start with a soil test to truly understand your lawn’s needs. It might reveal your lawn doesn’t need additional phosphorus or potassium at all!

Application Tips:

  • Light and Frequent: Feed Centipede little and often rather than heavy fertilizing all at once. Apply a light dose (as per the label) in the spring and a possible follow-up application in mid-summer.
  • Water In: Water thoroughly after applying granular fertilizer to help nutrients reach the roots.

Remember: Proper mowing and watering practices are key for a healthy Centipede lawn, with fertilizer playing a supporting role.

What is the best fertilizer for peonies?

While peonies are relatively low-maintenance, a bit of targeted fertilizer goes a long way in promoting healthy plants and those stunning blooms. Here’s what to look for:

Balanced but Low Nitrogen:

  • N-P-K Ratios: Fertilizers with balanced or slightly higher phosphorus and potassium are best, like 5-10-10 or 5-10-5. High nitrogen encourages leafy growth at the expense of flowers.
  • Bone Meal: A classic choice, bone meal is a natural source of phosphorus and calcium, supporting strong root and bud development.

When to Fertilize:

  • Early Spring: Apply as new growth emerges, giving your peonies a boost for the season.
  • After Blooming: A second application just after flowering helps replenish nutrients for the next year’s blooms.
  • Established Peonies: Well-established peonies might not need annual fertilizing, especially if your soil is already fertile. Observe their health – slow growth and fewer flowers could indicate they need a little extra.

Additional Tips:

  • Soil Test: Always start with a soil test, as it may reveal you don’t even need additional phosphorus or potassium.
  • Organic Matter: Compost and well-rotted manure improve soil health and provide a gentle, balanced source of nutrients over time.
  • Overfertilization Harms: Too much fertilizer, especially nitrogen, can lead to weak stems and fewer blooms.
  • Placement: Apply fertilizer around the drip line of the plant (outer edge of the foliage), where the active roots are.

Can i use orchid fertilizer on other plants?

Yes, you can use orchid fertilizer on other plants with some considerations. Here’s why it works and what to keep in mind:

Why it’s Okay:

  • Balanced Nutrition: Most orchid fertilizers are relatively balanced in their N-P-K ratios, making them suitable for various plants.
  • Gentle Formula: They’re often formulated to be gentle on delicate orchid roots, meaning less risk of over-fertilizing other plants.
  • Acid-Loving Plants: Orchids prefer slightly acidic conditions, so orchid fertilizers are ideal for acid-loving plants like blueberries, azaleas, and camellias.

Things to Consider:

  • Dilution: Dilute orchid fertilizer more than you would for orchids. A half or quarter strength solution is usually safe for most other plants.
  • Specific Needs: Some plants have specific fertilizer requirements that orchid fertilizer might not fully meet.
  • Don’t Use On Edibles: Avoid using orchid fertilizer on vegetables or other plants you intend to eat, as they may contain ingredients not intended for food crops.

When It’s a Good Choice:

  • Houseplants: Orchid fertilizer can be a good all-around choice for many houseplants.
  • Acid-Loving Outdoor Plants: Use it on those that prefer slightly acidic soil.

Alternatives:

  • General Purpose Fertilizers: These often provide a similar nutrient balance at a lower cost, especially for large-scale use.
  • Specialized Fertilizers: For plants with specific needs (like high phosphorus for flowering), a targeted fertilizer is best.

Can you apply scotts disease ex with fertilizer?

While you technically can mix and apply Scotts DiseaseEx with some fertilizers, it’s generally not recommended. Here’s why:

  1. Different Purposes:
  • DiseaseEx: A fungicide designed to prevent and treat fungal diseases in lawns.
  • Fertilizer: Provides essential nutrients for grass growth and health.
  1. Potential for Uneven Distribution: Mixing products can make it harder to ensure both the fungicide and fertilizer are spread evenly over your lawn. This leads to inconsistent disease protection and nutrient distribution.
  2. Application Timing Mismatch: DiseaseEx might need to be applied more frequently than fertilizer, especially if you’re actively dealing with a fungal issue. Mixing them limits your flexibility for application schedules.
  3. Limited Benefit: Combining them doesn’t offer any significant advantage over applying them separately.

Best Practice:

Apply Scotts DiseaseEx and fertilizer separately according to their label instructions. This ensures proper application rates and timing for both maximum effectiveness.

Additional Tips:

  • Watering: Water your lawn adequately after applying DiseaseEx to help it work effectively.
  • Prevention: Healthy lawn practices like proper mowing height and watering help prevent diseases in the first place, minimizing the need for fungicides.

How long after fertilizer can i use weed killer?

I usually wait at least two weeks after fertilizing before hitting my lawn with weed killer. Last summer, I made the mistake of rushing and applied weed killer just a week after feeding the grass. Big mistake! My poor lawn looked patchy and stressed for weeks. It seems like the fertilizer and weed killer cancelled each other out, and the grass ended up suffering. Since then, I’ve learned my lesson and wait a good two weeks to make sure the fertilizer has a chance to do its job before attacking the weeds. My lawn seems much happier this way!

How to make orange peel liquid fertilizer?

I actually just made a batch of orange peel fertilizer last week! It’s pretty easy. I saved up the peels from a few oranges for a couple days, then chopped them into thin strips. I didn’t bother drying them out completely, but they weren’t dripping wet either. Then I tossed them in a jar with some rainwater (I try to collect rainwater whenever possible for watering the plants) and filled it up almost to the brim. The trick is to leave a little headspace at the top. I sealed the jar with a lid and stuck it in a cool, dark corner of the laundry room. Now I wait! It should be ready to use in a few weeks, depending on how warm it is. I’m excited to see how my plants respond this time around.

How to remove fertilizer stains from concrete?

I struggle with this all the time! I always manage to spill a few granules of fertilizer when I’m tending to my potted plants on the patio, leaving these stubborn orange stains on my concrete. I’ve found that plain white vinegar works best for me. I mix up a solution of about half vinegar, half water and give the stain a good soak. A little scrubbing with a stiff brush usually loosens it up, then I just hose it down. I try to grab a broom and sweep up those stray granules as soon as I’m done fertilizing to prevent stains in the first place. But when my forgetful self inevitably spills, the vinegar trick has been my lifesaver.

Is 10-10-10 fertilizer good for pine trees?

While 10-10-10 fertilizer is a good all-purpose option for many plants, I wouldn’t consider it ideal for my pine trees. Since pines naturally thrive in more acidic soil, they have different nutrient needs than plants that prefer a balanced fertilizer. I’ve found that a fertilizer with a lower nitrogen ratio works better since too much nitrogen can make the soil less acidic and might actually hinder the pine’s growth. I usually look for fertilizers specifically formulated for evergreens and acid-loving plants. It’s worked well for the healthy green needles and steady growth I see in my backyard pines.

Is guinea pig poop good fertilizer?

I’ve always heard that guinea pig poop is fantastic garden fertilizer, and I’m inclined to agree. Since my daughter got her two guinea pigs, I’ve been tossing their bedding and droppings directly into my compost bin. The stuff breaks down quickly, and the compost seems richer now because of it. Plus, guinea pigs only eat plant-based foods, so I’m not worried about any harmful residues making their way into my veggies. I’ve even read that some people sprinkle the guinea pig poop right into their garden beds without composting first. Might give that a try next season myself!

What is ams fertilizer?

AMS stands for ammonium sulfate, which is a type of fertilizer. I’ve used it occasionally in my garden, especially for plants that like a bit more acidity in the soil. It supplies both nitrogen, which helps plants grow lush and green, and sulfur, which is an important nutrient that’s often overlooked. The key advantage of AMS for me is that it doesn’t leach easily from the soil, especially compared to other nitrogen fertilizers. That means my plants get a steady dose over time, and I don’t have to apply it as often.

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