19 Species in Genus Plumeria

What does plumeria smell like?

Ah, plumeria! The scent is pure island vacation for me. It’s sweet and floral, for sure, but there’s more to it. Sometimes I get a hint of jasmine, like walking past a blooming bush at night. But there’s also a tropical fruitiness, almost like ripe peaches, that mingles with the flowers. It’s intoxicating! The best part is that the fragrance isn’t overpowering unless you have a whole bunch of plumeria flowers around. It’s just enough to remind you of sunshine and sandy beaches.

Plumeria species

Plumeria alba L.
Plumeria clusioides Griseb.
Plumeria cubensis Urb.
Plumeria ekmanii Urb.
Plumeria emarginata Griseb.
Plumeria filifolia Griseb.
Plumeria inodora Jacq.
Plumeria krugii Urb.
Plumeria lanata Britton
Plumeria magna Zanoni & M.M.Mejía
Plumeria montana Britton & P.Wilson
Plumeria obtusa L.
Plumeria pudica Jacq.
Plumeria rubra L.
Plumeria × stenopetala Urb.
Plumeria subsessilis A.DC.
Plumeria trinitensis Britton
Plumeria tuberculata G.Lodd.
Plumeria venosa Britton

How to grow plumeria from seed?

I got my start with plumeria from seeds a few years ago, and let me tell you, it’s a rewarding process but it takes patience! First things first, you need well-draining soil. I mix regular potting mix with perlite for extra drainage. Then I soak the seeds overnight in warm water, they puff up a bit and look like little tadpoles. Planting is delicate – I make a small hole in the damp soil, just deep enough to cover the body of the seed with the tail sticking out. Keeping them warm and covered with a plastic dome helps mimic a greenhouse. The waiting game begins! It took about two weeks for mine to sprout, and seeing those first green leaves was like a mini miracle. Remember, don’t overwater, just keep the soil moist but not soggy. It’s a slow journey, but totally worth it when your plumeria finally blooms and fills your house with that amazing scent!

Is plumeria toxic to dogs?

Absolutely! My pup, Charlie, learned that the hard way. We have a beautiful plumeria in the yard, and one sunny afternoon, I caught him chewing on a fallen branch. Luckily, I knew plumeria might be bothersome for dogs. He didn’t swallow a huge chunk, but he did seem nauseous for a while, lots of drooling and licking his lips. It wasn’t a trip to the vet situation, but it was a good reminder to keep an eye on Charlie around the plumeria. Since then, I’ve been extra careful to trim fallen branches and keep him away from the plant. It’s beautiful, but better safe than sorry with our furry friends!

Can plumeria grow indoors?

You bet plumeria can grow indoors, but they can be a bit fussy! They’re sunshine seekers, so the key is mimicking their natural environment as best you can. I find a south-facing window is their happy place, giving them at least 4-6 hours of bright, direct sunlight each day. During winter, I might even supplement with a grow light to keep them perky. Watering is tricky – they don’t like soggy feet, so I wait until the soil feels dry to the touch before giving them a good drink. Then, I let the excess water drain out completely. They also seem to enjoy a warm climate, so I keep them away from drafts and anything too chilly. It takes some effort, but seeing those beautiful blooms indoors, even if they’re not as frequent as outside, makes it all worthwhile!

How fast do plumeria grow?

The growth rate of my plumeria can be a bit of a rollercoaster! It really depends on the time of year and how well I’m keeping up with their needs. In the spring and summer, with plenty of sunshine and warm temperatures, they can shoot up surprisingly fast. I’ve seen new branches grow several inches in a month! But come winter, when the days get shorter and cooler, things slow down dramatically. Sometimes it feels like they barely budge at all. Overall, I’d say mine average somewhere between 12 and 18 inches per year. I know some folks who can get theirs to grow even faster, but I’m still learning the ropes. Still, even with their ups and downs, watching my plumeria grow taller and fuller each year is a pretty satisfying feeling.

Is plumeria toxic to cats?

Oh yeah, absolutely! Those beautiful plumeria flowers and that milky sap? Turns out they’re not exactly catnip for my feline friend, Luna. I learned this the hard way when I first brought home a plumeria plant. Luna, ever curious, decided to take a closer sniff and maybe even a nibble. Luckily, I caught her right away and there wasn’t any serious chomping involved. But she did foam at the mouth for a bit and seemed pretty irritated. After a quick call to the vet and some online research, I found out all parts of the plumeria are toxic to cats. It wasn’t a fun experience, but it definitely made me super cautious about keeping the plumeria out of Luna’s reach. Now it sits proudly on a high shelf where she can’t get to it, and everyone’s happy (and healthy)!

How to bring plumeria out of dormancy?

Ah, springing my plumeria out of dormancy is like a yearly ritual for me! It’s all about mimicking warmer weather and longer days to gently nudge them awake. Here’s what works for mine:

First, I wait until the danger of frost has completely passed. Nights need to stay consistently above 55°F (around 13°C). Then, I take them out of their winter storage spot. I usually keep them in a cool, dry place with minimal light during dormancy.

Next up, sunlight! I gradually introduce them to brighter light, maybe a few hours a day at first, then slowly increase it as the weeks go on. A south-facing window is ideal if you’re keeping them indoors.

Watering is key too. During dormancy, I barely water them at all. But as they wake up, I start with a light drink, letting the soil dry out completely between waterings. They don’t like soggy roots when they’re just getting going.

Finally, a little TLC goes a long way. I might repot them if they’ve gotten rootbound, using fresh, well-draining soil. I also remove any dead leaves or branches to encourage new growth.

It takes patience, but within a few weeks, you should see some signs of life! New growth will start to appear, and the stems might even plump up a bit. That’s your cue to increase watering and give them some fertilizer to fuel their spring and summer show!

How to transplant plumeria?

Transplanting my plumeria can be a bit nerve-wracking, but seeing them thrive in their new home makes it all worthwhile! Here’s my approach:

Timing is everything. I wait until spring or early summer, when the weather is warm and there’s no risk of frost. That gives the plumeria a chance to adjust before winter rolls around.

Next, I prepare the new pot or planting location. For pots, I choose one just a size or two bigger than the current one. Drainage is crucial, so I make sure the pot has holes and use a well-draining potting mix. If planting in the ground, I dig a hole at least twice as wide and deep as the root ball.

Before the big move, I stop watering the plumeria for a few days to allow the soil to dry out slightly. This makes it easier to remove the plant from its current pot without damaging the roots.

Gently but firmly, I tip the pot on its side and tap it to loosen the root ball. Sometimes I carefully slide a knife around the edge of the pot to help detach the roots. Once it’s free, I inspect the roots for any rot or damage and prune them if necessary.

In the new pot or hole, I position the plumeria at the same depth it was growing before. I fill in the gaps around the root ball with fresh potting mix or soil, making sure there are no air pockets.

Watering thoroughly is key! I soak the soil until water runs out the drainage holes. Then, I resume my regular watering schedule, letting the soil dry out between drinks.

For the first few weeks after transplanting, I keep the plumeria out of direct sunlight to prevent stress. I also mist the leaves occasionally, especially if it’s hot and dry, to help them adjust to their new environment.

With a little care and attention, your plumeria should bounce back from transplanting in no time and be on its way to thriving in its new home!

Why are my plumeria leaves turning yellow?

There could be a few reasons why your plumeria leaves are turning yellow. Let’s think through them together.

Overwatering: This is a common culprit for yellowing leaves. Plumeria are used to drier climates and don’t like soggy roots. Stick your finger in the soil – if it feels moist or wet even a few inches down, you might be watering too much.
Underwatering: While less likely, underwatering can also cause yellowing leaves. If the soil feels bone dry and the plant looks droopy, it might be thirsty.
Lack of sunlight: Plumeria are sun-worshippers! If they’re not getting enough bright, indirect sunlight, they can’t properly photosynthesize and their leaves might turn yellow.
Nutrient deficiency: Sometimes yellowing leaves can indicate a lack of nutrients in the soil. If your plumeria hasn’t been fertilized in a while, that could be the issue.

To diagnose the problem, consider when the yellowing started and how you’ve been caring for your plumeria.

Here’s what I would do:

Check the soil moisture: Stick your finger in the soil. If it’s dry, give your plumeria a good drink and let the excess water drain out completely. If it’s soggy, hold off on watering and let it dry out completely before watering again.
Light situation: Make sure your plumeria is getting at least 4-6 hours of bright, indirect sunlight each day.
Fertilize: If it hasn’t been fed recently, consider giving your plumeria a dose of fertilizer formulated for blooming plants.

With a little detective work and some adjustments to your care routine, you should be able to get your plumeria back on track and those leaves healthy and green again!

How big do plumeria trees get?

The mature size of plumeria trees can vary depending on the specific species and growing conditions. Here’s what I’ve observed and learned:

Generally large shrubs or small trees: Most plumeria I see in yards or gardens tend to be on the larger shrub side, reaching somewhere around 15-20 feet (4.5-6 meters) tall. They often have a branching structure that creates a rounded or spreading canopy.
Species variations: There are some plumeria species known to grow larger. Plumeria alba, for instance, can reach up to 25 feet (7.5 meters) tall.
Climate and care: How big a plumeria gets also depends on where it’s planted and how well it’s cared for. In warm, tropical climates with plenty of sunshine, plumeria might have more potential to reach their full size. Proper watering, fertilization, and pruning can also influence their growth.

While some folks might aim for a towering plumeria, I personally like to keep mine on the smaller side through pruning. It makes them easier to manage and keeps those beautiful blooms within admiring distance!

How cold can plumeria tolerate?

Plumeria are definitely not fans of the cold! They’re native to warm, tropical climates and can’t tolerate freezing temperatures for very long. Here’s what I’ve learned about their cold tolerance:

Danger zone: Most plumeria will suffer damage if the temperature dips below freezing, which is 32°F (0°C). At that point, the leaves will likely wilt and the stems might get soft and mushy.
They can handle a slight chill: Some sources say plumeria can tolerate brief dips down to the mid-40s (around 4°C), especially if they’re healthy and well-watered. But it’s best to err on the side of caution.
Dormancy vs. damage: It’s important to distinguish between dormancy and cold damage. During dormancy, in cooler weather, plumeria will naturally lose their leaves. This is a normal resting phase and not a cause for concern. But if the leaves turn yellow and mushy along with the cold, that’s a sign of damage.

If you live in a climate with cool winters, it’s best to bring your plumeria indoors before the first frost. They can be happy houseplants as long as they get enough sunlight and warm temperatures.

How to repot a plumeria?

Repotting a plumeria can give it a fresh start and encourage new growth, but it’s important to do it at the right time and with the right technique. Here’s what’s worked for me:

Timing is key: The best time to repot a plumeria is in the spring or early summer. The weather is warm, and the plant is actively growing, so it can recover from the stress of transplanting quickly. Avoid repotting in the fall or winter when the plumeria is dormant.

Prepare the new pot: Choose a pot that’s just one or two sizes larger than the current one. Drainage is crucial for plumeria, so make sure the new pot has holes in the bottom to allow excess water to drain. I use a well-draining potting mix specifically formulated for cacti and succulents. You can also add perlite to your regular potting mix for extra drainage.

Get the plumeria ready: Stop watering your plumeria a few days before repotting to allow the soil to dry out slightly. This will make it easier to remove the plant from its current pot without damaging the roots.

Carefully remove the plumeria: Gently tip the pot on its side and tap it to loosen the root ball. You might need to slide a knife around the edge of the pot to help detach the roots.

Inspect and prune the roots (optional): Once the plumeria is out of the pot, take a look at the root system. If there are any dead, rotten, or circling roots, you can carefully prune them away with sharp shears.

Planting in the new pot: Place the plumeria in the center of the new pot, making sure it’s sitting at the same depth it was in the old pot. Fill in the gaps around the root ball with fresh potting mix, gently tamping it down to remove any air pockets.

Watering and aftercare: Water the plumeria thoroughly until water runs out the drainage holes. Then, allow the top inch or so of soil to dry out completely before watering again. For the first few weeks after repotting, keep the plumeria out of direct sunlight to prevent stress. You can also mist the leaves occasionally, especially if it’s hot and dry, to help them adjust to their new environment.

With proper care after repotting, your plumeria should bounce back quickly and be on its way to thriving in its new pot!

When does plumeria bloom in Florida?

In Florida, plumeria typically bloom between May and November [3]. The sunshine state’s warm weather provides the perfect conditions for these beauties to flourish and show off their fragrant flowers. So, if you’re in Florida right now (which is early May), you might be catching the beginning of their blooming season!

Are plumeria flowers edible?

The information about plumeria flower edibility can be conflicting. While some sources say they’re perfectly fine to eat, it’s important to remember all parts of the plumeria plant are considered mildly toxic.

Here’s what I’ve gathered:

Technically edible: In small quantities, the flowers themselves may not cause serious harm. Some people even use them in salads, teas, or candies.
Best avoided: However, due to the toxin content, it’s generally recommended to err on the side of caution and avoid eating plumeria flowers altogether. This is especially true for children and pets who might be more sensitive.

If you’re curious about the taste, it might be best to just give a tiny nibble to a single petal and see how you react. But remember, it’s best to enjoy plumeria flowers for their lovely fragrance rather than their flavor!

Do plumeria lose their leaves in winter?

Absolutely! In most climates, plumeria trees will lose their leaves in winter as a natural part of their dormancy cycle. Here’s why:

Tropical roots, not cold-resistant tops: These beauties come from warm, tropical regions where freezing temperatures are rare. Their root systems can handle slightly cooler weather, but the leaves are more sensitive to cold.
Conserving resources: By dropping their leaves in winter, plumeria trees conserve energy and water. There’s less sunlight for photosynthesis during this time, and the cold temperatures can slow down water uptake. Shedding leaves helps them weather the winter until warmer weather returns.
Sign of dormancy: Seeing your plumeria lose its leaves shouldn’t be cause for alarm. It’s actually a good sign! It means the plant is entering its dormancy period, a time for rest and renewal before putting on new growth in spring.

However, there are a few things to keep in mind:

Climate matters: In very warm climates like southern Florida or Hawaii, plumeria might hold onto some of their leaves throughout winter. But in areas with cooler winters, complete defoliation is more common.
Indoor plumeria: If you keep your plumeria as a houseplant, it might also lose its leaves in winter, especially if it’s not getting enough sunlight. However, with proper care and light adjustments, you might be able to encourage it to hold onto some leaves indoors.

So, if your plumeria is losing its leaves as the temperature dips, don’t worry! It’s just doing what nature intended. Just provide proper winter care (less water, cooler temperatures) and wait patiently for spring when those beautiful leaves (and hopefully, fragrant flowers) return!

How to care for plumeria in winter?

Wintertime means dormancy for your plumeria, but that doesn’t mean you can just neglect it! Here are some key things to remember for providing proper winter care and ensuring your plumeria thrives come spring:

Temperature control: Plumeria like it warm, ideally between 50-60°F (10-15°C). Protect them from frost and freezing temperatures, which can damage or kill the plant. If you live in a cold climate, bring your plumeria indoors before the first frost arrives.
Light matters: While they won’t be actively growing, plumeria still appreciate some light during dormancy. A sunny window is ideal, but even indirect light will do. If indoors, supplement with a grow light for a few hours a day if natural light is limited.
Water on hold (almost): Unlike their summer thirst, plumeria need very little water in winter. The soil should dry out completely between infrequent waterings. Overwatering is a major risk during dormancy, as it can lead to root rot. Err on the side of underwatering.
Fertilizer? Not now: Hold off on fertilizing your plumeria during winter. They’re not actively growing and won’t utilize the nutrients. Save the feeding for spring when they come out of dormancy.
Keep an eye on pests: Even indoors, pests like mealybugs or scale can still be a problem. Regularly inspect your plumeria and treat any infestations promptly.
Pruning for spring: (Optional) While dormant, it’s a good time to prune your plumeria to encourage bushier growth and better flowering in spring. Just make sure to use sharp, sterilized pruners and avoid removing too much foliage.

By following these winter care tips, your plumeria will have a restful dormancy and be ready to put on a spectacular show of blooms come spring!

How to root plumeria cutting?

Rooting plumeria cuttings is a rewarding way to propagate these beautiful flowering trees! Here’s a breakdown of the process I’ve followed with success:

Preparation:

The cutting: Choose a healthy stem, about 1-2 feet long and at least ½ inch thick. Look for a branch that isn’t flowering and has some mature nodes (the bumps where leaves grow). Make a clean, straight cut at an angle just below a node using sharp pruners.
Callousing the cut: This step is crucial to prevent rot. Let the cut end sit upright in a cool, dry place with good air circulation for 3-7 days. The cut surface should turn brown and firm.

Planting:

Potting mix: Use a well-draining mix specifically formulated for cacti and succulents. You can also mix regular potting mix with perlite for extra drainage.
Potting the cutting: Choose a pot only slightly larger than the diameter of the cutting. Fill the pot with the potting mix, making a well in the center deep enough to accommodate half the cutting’s length. Insert the calloused end of the cutting into the well and fill in the gaps around it with soil, gently tamping it down.

Watering and care:

Watering: Water the pot thoroughly until water runs out the drainage holes. Then, let the soil dry out completely before watering again. Overwatering is a major cause of failure.
Light and temperature: Place the pot in a warm location with bright, indirect sunlight. A south-facing window is ideal. Maintain temperatures between 70-80°F (21-27°C).
Patience is key!: Rooting can take anywhere from 6-12 weeks, so be patient! You might see some new growth on the top of the cutting before roots develop underground.

Tips for success:

Rooting hormone (optional): Dipping the cut end of the plumeria cutting in a rooting hormone before planting can encourage faster root development.
Humidity: While not essential, maintaining some humidity around the cutting can be beneficial. You can achieve this by placing the pot in a clear plastic bag with a few holes for air circulation (mist the inside of the bag occasionally to maintain moisture). However, avoid leaving it sealed completely as this can trap too much moisture and lead to rot.
Multiple cuttings: Increase your chances of success by taking multiple plumeria cuttings!

With a little care and patience, you should see your plumeria cutting develop healthy roots and eventually transform into a thriving new plumeria plant!

What does a plumeria look like before it blooms?

Before a plumeria blooms, it looks like a lush green shrub or small tree with thick, fleshy branches and large, oblong leaves. The leaves are typically a glossy green on the topside and a paler green or even slightly yellowish-green on the underside.

At the tips of the branches, you might see small bumps or bulges. These are the flower buds, and they will slowly grow larger and fatter over time until they eventually burst open into the beautiful, fragrant flowers that plumeria are known for.

What to do with plumeria flowers?

Ah, plumeria flowers! They’re not just beautiful and fragrant, they’re also surprisingly versatile. Here are a few ideas for what you can do with them:

Enjoy their natural beauty: The most obvious way to appreciate plumeria flowers is to simply admire them on the tree or arrange them in a vase. Their vibrant colors and intoxicating scent can brighten up any room.
Make a Hawaiian Lei: Plumeria flowers are a staple in Hawaiian culture, traditionally woven into leis to adorn dancers and guests at celebrations. You can thread the blooms together to create your own fragrant lei, although the stem might need to be removed first.
Potpourri for a tropical touch: Dried plumeria flowers add a beautiful pop of color and a lovely fragrance to potpourri bowls. Simply dry the flowers in a cool, dark place with good air circulation for a few weeks, then mix them with other fragrant elements like potpourri mix or dried citrus peels.
Bath time bliss: For a luxurious and relaxing bath, sprinkle some plumeria flowers into the tub. The scent will fill the bathroom and the flower petals can gently float on the water’s surface.
A touch of the tropics in your drink: (Use with caution!) While not technically recommended for consumption due to the mild toxins in the plant, some people like to add a single plumeria flower (usually the stamen, the central part) to a fancy tropical cocktail for a visual touch. Just remember, a little goes a long way!
Pressed flower art: Capture the beauty of plumeria flowers forever by pressing them. Place the flowers between sheets of absorbent paper (like blotting paper or parchment paper) and weigh them down with a heavy book for a few weeks. Once dried, you can use the pressed flowers in all sorts of craft projects like scrapbooking, greeting cards, or even framed artwork.

No matter how you choose to use them, plumeria flowers are a wonderful way to bring a touch of the tropics into your life!

How many types of plumeria are there?

The exact number of plumeria species is a bit of a debate amongst gardeners and botanists. Here’s what you might find:

Limited species view: Some gardening experts say there are only 2 true plumeria species:
- Plumeria rubra (red plumeria) – This is the most common type you’ll see around.
- Plumeria alba (white plumeria) – Known for its fragrant white flowers.
More species acknowledged: Others acknowledge 3 or 4 species, including the two mentioned above and possibly Plumeria obtusa and Plumeria pudica.
Hybrid explosion: On top of that, there are countless plumeria hybrids created by cross-pollination. New hybrids are developed every year, resulting in a vast array of flower colors, shapes, sizes, and even fragrances.

So, depending on who you ask, the answer could be anywhere from 2 to a seemingly endless number! For the average gardener, focusing on the main plumeria species and the wide variety of beautiful hybrids is probably the most practical approach.

When to fertilize plumeria?

The best time to fertilize your plumeria depends on its growing cycle and your climate. Here’s a breakdown to help you feed your plumeria for optimal growth and blooms:

Feeding during the growing season:

Spring and Summer: This is when your plumeria is actively growing and putting out new leaves and flowers. Aim to fertilize regularly, roughly every 2-4 weeks, with a fertilizer formulated for blooming plants. Look for a fertilizer with a higher middle number (phosphorus) to encourage flower bud formation.

Holding off on fertilizer:

Fall and Winter: As the days shorten and temperatures cool, your plumeria will naturally slow down its growth and enter a dormant state. This is the time to hold off on fertilizing altogether. Applying fertilizer during dormancy can disrupt the plant’s natural cycle and potentially damage the roots.

Additional factors to consider:

Climate: If you live in a warm climate with minimal winter dormancy, you might be able to stretch out the fertilization window a bit longer.
Plant maturity: Younger plumeria plants might need more frequent fertilization than established ones.
Fertilizer type: Slow-release fertilizers can provide nutrients over a longer period, reducing the need for frequent feeding.

Signs your plumeria might need fertilizer:

Stunted growth
Smaller or paler leaves
Lack of flower buds

Remember: It’s always better to err on the side of under-fertilizing than over-fertilizing your plumeria. Too much fertilizer can damage the roots and hinder growth.

By following these guidelines and observing your plumeria’s individual needs, you can ensure it gets the nutrients it needs to thrive throughout the growing season!

Are coffee grounds good for plumeria?

Coffee grounds for plumeria can be a bit of a mixed bag. Here’s the breakdown:

Potential benefits:

Acidity boost: Coffee grounds are slightly acidic, which can be beneficial for some acid-loving plants like azaleas. However, plumeria aren’t particularly picky about soil pH and can thrive in neutral or slightly acidic conditions.
Organic matter: Composted coffee grounds can add organic matter to the soil, improving drainage and aeration. This can be helpful for plumeria, which prefer well-draining soil.

Drawbacks to consider:

Uncomposted grounds: Using fresh or uncomposted coffee grounds directly around your plumeria can be more harmful than helpful. The grounds can break down slowly, rob the soil of nitrogen needed by the plant, and potentially create an environment that attracts fungus gnats.
Nutrient imbalance: Coffee grounds are high in nitrogen but lack other essential nutrients like phosphorus and potassium, which are crucial for flowering plants like plumeria.

Alternatives to consider:

Compost: If you’re looking to add organic matter to your plumeria’s soil, composted coffee grounds can be a better option. The composting process breaks down the grounds, neutralizes the acidity, and makes the nutrients more readily available to plants.
Balanced fertilizer: For optimal growth and flowering, a fertilizer formulated for blooming plants is the best way to provide your plumeria with the specific nutrients it needs.

Overall:

While coffee grounds aren’t necessarily harmful to plumeria in small quantities, there are better ways to nurture your plant. If you’re set on using them, stick with composted coffee grounds and use them sparingly as a soil amendment, not a primary fertilizer. For best results, focus on providing your plumeria with well-draining soil, proper watering, and a balanced fertilizer during the growing season.

Do deer eat plumeria?

While there isn’t a definitive answer of “yes” or “no” when it comes to deer and plumeria, here’s what I found:

Generally not preferred: Most sources agree that plumeria are not a favorite food source for deer. The milky white sap they contain is a deterrent, and the leaves and stems likely don’t taste very appealing to deer.
Desperate deer might nibble: However, if deer are hungry enough and have limited food options, they might take a bite of a plumeria. This is more likely to happen in areas with harsh winters or limited natural food sources.
Mixed experiences: There are anecdotal accounts of deer both avoiding and consuming plumeria. Some gardeners report deer leaving their plumeria untouched, while others have found them partially eaten.

Here are some things to consider:

The presence of other food sources: If deer have access to plenty of their preferred browse like trees, shrubs, and other plants, they’re less likely to bother your plumeria.
The age of your plumeria: Deer might be more likely to nibble on younger plumeria plants, as they tend to be more tender and less likely to have a strong sap production.
The individual deer’s taste: Just like humans, deer can have individual preferences. Some deer might simply find plumeria more palatable than others.

If you’re worried about deer damaging your plumeria, here are some deterrents you can try:

Physical barriers: Fencing is the most effective way to keep deer away from your plants. A fence at least 8 feet tall should be sufficient to deter most deer.
Deer repellents: There are a variety of commercial deer repellents available. These typically have a strong smell or taste that deters deer from browsing.
Plant placement: If fencing or repellents aren’t an option, try planting your plumeria in a location that deer are less likely to frequent, such as near buildings or walkways.

By understanding deer behavior and taking some preventative measures, you can help protect your plumeria and keep it looking its best!

How big does a plumeria tree get?

The mature size of a plumeria tree can vary depending on the specific species, growing conditions, and care it receives. Here’s a breakdown of what to expect:

Generally large shrubs or small trees: Most plumeria you’ll see in yards or gardens tend to be on the larger shrub side, reaching somewhere around 15-20 feet (4.5-6 meters) tall. They often have a branching structure that creates a rounded or spreading canopy.

Species variations: There are some plumeria species known to grow larger. Plumeria alba, for instance, can reach up to 25 feet (7.5 meters) tall.

Climate and care: How big a plumeria gets also depends on where it’s planted and how well it’s cared for. In warm, tropical climates with plenty of sunshine, plumeria might have more potential to reach their full size. Proper watering, fertilization, and pruning can also influence their growth.

Keeping them bushy: Some gardeners prefer to keep their plumeria on the smaller side for easier management and to maintain those beautiful blooms within admiring distance. This can be achieved through regular pruning.